“Izu-Ichi” refers to a cycling route that makes a complete loop around the Izu Peninsula along the coast. There are several variations, each differing in total distance and elevation gain.
https://www.strava.com/routes/3162788641041358950
Much of the Izu Peninsula consists of sheer cliffs that drop straight down to the sea, so even though the route follows the coastline, it is rarely flat. Even the shorter routes exceed 200 km with more than 3,000 m of elevation gain.
The route I rode was the most demanding of all the variations: a total distance of 270 km with 4,300 m of elevation gain. Starting in Odawara, it circles the peninsula clockwise, crosses the Hakone Pass at an elevation of 846 m, and returns to Odawara.
Soon after starting in Odawara, the route joins Route 135 along the coast. Repeating short climbs and descents, it heads steadily south. If you depart late at night, you will likely see the sun rise somewhere along the eastern coast of the Izu Peninsula.
After 100 km from Odawara, you reach the town of Shimoda. From there, there are two options: continue farther south toward Cape Irozaki at the southernmost tip of the peninsula, or take a shortcut across to the west coast. Naturally, the recommended choice is the route to Cape Irozaki.
Cape Irozaki is one of the few places in Minami-Izu with shops and vending machines, making it an ideal spot for rest and resupply. Reaching the Irozaki Lighthouse requires a short walk of a few minutes, but the view from there is magnificent, so it is well worth visiting if time allows. Be aware, however, that the area around Cape Irozaki is not accessible 24 hours a day, so be sure to check opening hours in advance.
Leaving Cape Irozaki and heading toward West Izu, there are spots where you can look out over sheer cliffs and emerald-blue, crystal-clear seas. Enjoy these views as you ride on.
After that, the route briefly leaves the coast, passing through a series of tunnels and a short climbing section. Following a descent, the road gently climbs through open rice fields before passing another tunnel—this marks the beginning of the West Izu section. At this point, you have covered about 130 km from Odawara, roughly half the total distance, but the accumulated elevation gain is still only around 1,800 m, not yet half of the total.
After the tunnel, a winding downhill brings the sea back into view. Passing quiet fishing villages, the climbing begins again. For a while, the route is a continuous series of ups and downs, with gradients reaching around 10% as you climb to elevations of several hundred meters. The sea disappears once more as the road winds through the mountains with repeated climbs and descents. Eventually, you reach a summit area with a few buildings—some may be cafés. From the parking area across the road, you can look out over the sea of West Izu: Suruga Bay.
After that come more descents, gentle climbs, and then a longer downhill. Soon you will see a sign indicating entry into Matsuzaki Town. Farther on, the road splits to the right, but you can continue straight on the main route. If you do turn right and climb a short distance, however, you will reach an observation point overlooking the Ishibu Rice Terraces, a distinctive landscape of small, table-like rice paddies layered across a steep slope.
The downhill eventually leads to the area of Kumomi, a quiet fishing port surrounded by cliffs. On a clear day, Mount Fuji can be seen from here. The stretch from Kumomi to Matsuzaki is, in my opinion, the most beautiful section of the Izu Peninsula. The road is carved into seaside cliffs, twisting along the rock face with repeated climbs and descents.
Eventually, the townscape of Matsuzaki comes into view, followed by a downhill ride into town.
Matsuzaki is a beautiful town. Many old houses remain, featuring “namako walls”—grid-patterned plaster walls—creating a calm, rural atmosphere entirely different from that of a big city. Time seems to flow gently here, and it is easy to linger longer than planned. If you have time, take a walk around town. Depending on the season, you may see flower fields planted in rice paddies before planting season, or, in spring, cherry blossom trees lining the river for several kilometers. This is why Matsuzaki is known as the “Town of Flowers and Romance.”
Leaving Matsuzaki, the route heads north and soon reaches Dogashima, an area full of attractions and also popular for its hot spring inns.
Beyond Dogashima, the road passes through a series of tunnels, with little view of the sea, making this a somewhat monotonous section. Given the mountainous nature of the Izu Peninsula, this is unavoidable—there is no other route that stays closer to the coastline throughout.
Eventually, you will see signs for a scenic spot called Koganezaki, marking the town of Ugusu. Ugusu is very small and passes by quickly, but nearby Koganezaki offers a rare view: steep cliff faces that glow golden in the setting sun. Even outside sunset hours, the yellowish rock can appear golden depending on the light. Ugusu is also the starting point for the climbing route up Nishina Pass.
The stretch from Ugusu to Toi is one of the gentler sections in West Izu, with relatively relaxed ups and downs. The peak of this section is a viewpoint known as Lover’s Cape, after which the road gradually descends. On a clear day, you can ride with Mount Fuji in view ahead.
Soon you arrive in Toi, a town famous for the Toi Gold Mine and its many hot spring inns—perhaps the most prominent tourist destination in West Izu. After passing through Toi, the route leaves the coast slightly and a climbing section begins, with two ascents of several hundred meters each. There is an observation deck along the way. The road narrows, houses become scarce, and after a series of hairpin turns on the descent, you may spot a uniquely shaped cape below—that is the town of Heda.
Heda is a quiet town nestled between mountains and protected by a sandbar, and it marks the starting point of the steep Heda Pass. However, since Izu-Ichi follows the coast, it does not head toward Heda Pass. Leaving Heda toward Cape Osezaki, the road quickly steepens to around a 10% gradient, climbing more than 100 meters in one go. There is an observation point just before the peak where you can look down over Heda—an ideal place for a short break. After another climb of similar intensity and a tunnel, the harsh ups and downs of the Izu Peninsula finally come to an end. A downhill follows, and soon you will see a cape reminiscent of Heda—this is Osezaki. Across the sea, Mount Fuji may also come into view.
From there, ride on with Mount Fuji and the sea to your left, descending to a road close to sea level. For a while, there are no significant climbs.
As the coastal road turns toward central Numazu, you bid farewell to the sea. Suddenly, you are thrown into urban traffic, stopping at signals and watching for an unbroken flow of cars as you head toward Hakone Pass—the final peak and the last major challenge of Izu-Ichi. This is the first sustained climb to around 800 m elevation on the route. Looking at the elevation profile on Strava, Hakone Pass clearly stands out. Still, do not forget that by this point you have already accumulated around 3,500 m of climbing—the Izu Peninsula is demanding even along its coast.
You will climb National Route 1 steadily. The gradient averages around 6%, so it is not excessively steep, but the climb is over 10 km long and may feel punishing to an already exhausted body and mind. Along the way, there is a signal where the road branches toward the Nakayama Castle Ruins. Cyclists are recommended to take this route, as there are vending machines at the ruins where you can rest and resupply.
After passing the ruins, you soon rejoin Route 1. There are no traffic lights here, so be sure to check carefully for cars before merging into the uphill lane. Though it may feel as if the climb will never end, the mountain ridge will gradually draw closer. When you see buildings and parking areas that look like facilities of some sort, the signal at Hakone Pass is just ahead—the end of this grueling journey is near.
From Hakone Pass, descend toward Lake Ashinoko. Continue on, then climb briefly again from the town of Motohakone—this lasts only a few minutes. At the next signal, you must choose to turn left or right. Turning right leads to a steep downhill on a lightly trafficked road, while turning left means climbing a bit more before descending on a route with gentler gradients but heavier traffic and possible congestion.
Either way, once you begin descending, it is almost all downhill to Odawara. Prioritize safety and take it easy, especially through hot spring areas where there may be many pedestrians depending on the time of day.
When the winding road finally straightens, that is your victory run into Odawara. Savor the final pedal strokes as you feel the long adventure coming to an end.
Izu Climbing 